It applies a complete paint color scheme — a main color, a trim/secondary color, and an optional accent color — to your uploaded exterior or interior photo at once, so you can see how the colors work together before painting.
Home Color Combination AI is a free AI tool. Free AI home color combination tool — upload a photo of your exterior or interior and preview a full paint color scheme (main, trim, accent) before you buy a single can.
Free to try · first generation free on signup · no credit card
Start by uploading image
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Configure your options
Your AI Design Will Appear Here
Fill in the options on the left, then press Generate.
Attach an image, video or voice clip, then tell the AI what to do with it.
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Drag & drop your file here or click to browse
A paint chip in your hand and a paint chip on your house are two different colors — light, scale and the surfaces around it all change how a color reads. This tool applies a full combination (main, trim, accent) to your own photo at once, so you're judging the scheme the way it will actually look, not guessing from three small squares held up against siding.
Free to try · results in about 30 seconds · no card required
Every paint color has an undertone — a warm, cool, or neutral cast hiding underneath the color you think you're looking at. A "white" can lean warm (a hint of yellow or cream) or cool (a hint of blue or gray), and two whites with different undertones next to each other can look like they don't match even though both are technically white. This is the single most common reason a color that looked perfect on the chip looks wrong on the wall or siding.
Undertones shift depending on what's next to them. A warm beige can look muddy next to cool gray stone, and crisp next to warm brick. This is why color combinations matter more than any single color choice in isolation — the main, trim and accent colors are read relative to each other and to whatever fixed materials are already on the house, not as three independent decisions.
LRV — Light Reflectance Value — is the other variable most people never see on a paint chip but that changes everything once a color goes up at scale. It's a 0-100 scale of how much light a color reflects: low-LRV dark colors absorb light and can look almost black in shade, while high-LRV pale colors can look washed out or glaring in direct sun. The same color number can read as two different colors depending on the LRV, which is part of why colors always look different on the house than they did on the small chip in the store.
Most homes have fixed elements that can't be repainted along with the walls — roof shingles, brick, stone, existing flooring or cabinetry. A successful color combination is chosen to work with these, not against them, since they set hard boundaries on what will look coordinated versus clashing. A roof with warm brown undertones, for instance, generally sits better with warm-leaning siding and trim colors than with a cool blue-gray scheme, even if the blue-gray looked great on its own.
The fixed element with the most influence is usually whatever takes up the most visual area and can't change — a large stone chimney, a brick lower level, or in an interior, existing hardwood flooring or stone countertops. Pulling an undertone from that fixed material into the new paint scheme, even subtly, is what makes a combination look intentional rather than accidental.
This is exactly why previewing a full combination on your own photo is more useful than choosing colors from a fan deck alone — your photo already contains the fixed elements the scheme has to work around, so you can judge the undertone relationship directly instead of imagining it.
A classic starting ratio for any color combination is roughly 60% main color, 30% secondary/trim, and 10% accent. On an exterior that's typically the siding at 60%, trim and larger architectural details at 30%, and a front door or shutters as the 10% accent. Indoors it maps to walls at 60%, upholstery or larger furniture at 30%, and accessories or accent walls at 10%. The ratio isn't a rigid law, but combinations that stray far from it — an accent color used everywhere, or a main and secondary color close enough in value that they blur together — tend to read as unbalanced.
Orientation changes how every color in the scheme performs. North-facing rooms and elevations get cooler, flatter, more consistent light throughout the day, which can make colors look slightly duller and cooler-toned than the chip suggested — a bias toward slightly warmer color choices often compensates. South-facing exposures get warmer, more direct light that can wash out pale colors at midday and intensify saturated ones; colors here often look brighter and warmer than expected. East and west exposures shift through the day, warm in the morning or evening and more neutral the rest of the time, so a color there can genuinely look different from breakfast to sunset.
Sheen level is a smaller but real factor once undertone and orientation are settled. Higher sheen (satin, semi-gloss) reflects more light and can make a color look lighter and more saturated at once, which is why trim and doors — usually higher sheen than walls or siding — often read slightly different from the same color swatch in flat or eggshell. Matching sheen expectations to the surface (flat or eggshell for large wall areas, satin or semi-gloss for trim and doors that need to be wiped down) keeps the combination looking coordinated rather than accidentally mismatched in finish.
A color that looks bold and balanced on a 2-inch chip can look overwhelming spread across an entire facade, and a color that looked substantial on the chip can nearly disappear once it's covering a whole wall — color intensity compounds with area. This is the single biggest gap between choosing paint from a fan deck and actually living with the result, and it's the main reason a full-photo preview is worth doing before buying paint: it shows the color at roughly the scale it will actually appear, next to your actual fixed elements, in your actual light.
Treat any preview, including this one, as a strong directional guide rather than a color-matching guarantee — screens render color differently from each other and from real paint under real light, and undertone can shift again once the paint is physically mixed and dries. Before committing to a full repaint, get large sample swatches of your top choices, paint them directly on the surface (or a board held against it), and view them at different times of day.
The dominant color for walls or siding
It applies a complete paint color scheme — a main color, a trim/secondary color, and an optional accent color — to your uploaded exterior or interior photo at once, so you can see how the colors work together before painting.
Yes — pick "Exterior" for siding, trim and doors, or "Interior Room" for walls, trim and accent details inside a room.
No. The structure, furniture, landscaping, and every other object in your photo stay exactly the same — only the paintable surfaces are recolored.
Scale, light and undertone all change how a color reads. Light Reflectance Value (LRV) means pale colors can look washed out in direct sun and dark colors can look nearly black in shade, and a color that looks bold on a small chip often looks much stronger spread across a whole wall or facade.
Identify the undertone of your fixed elements — warm or cool — and choose a main, trim and accent color that shares or complements that undertone. Fixed materials like roofing, brick, stone and flooring can't be repainted, so the color scheme should be built around them, not chosen in isolation.
It's a starting ratio for a balanced scheme: roughly 60% main color, 30% trim or secondary color, and 10% accent. On an exterior that's siding, trim, and a front door or shutters; indoors it's walls, larger furniture, and accessories.
Yes. North-facing exposures get cooler, flatter light that can mute colors, while south-facing exposures get warmer, more direct light that can wash out pale colors and intensify saturated ones. The same color can look noticeably different depending on which way a room or wall faces.
No — treat it as a strong directional guide, not a color-matching guarantee. Screens and real paint render color differently, so get large physical samples of your top choices and view them on the actual surface at different times of day before committing to a full repaint.